journal article·2022-04-29Open access

Design of a Naturally Dyed and Waterproof Biotechnological Leather from Reconstituted Cellulose

Claudio José Galdino da Silva Junior, Julia Didier Pedrosa de Amorim, Alexandre D’Lamare Maia de Medeiros, Anantcha Karla Lafaiete de Holanda Cavalcanti, Helenise Almeida do Nascimento, Mariana Alves Henrique, Leonardo José Costa do Nascimento Maranhão, Glória Maria Vinhas, Késia Karina de Oliveira Souto Silva, Andréa Fernanda de Santana Costa, Leonie Asfora Sarubbo

Abstract

Consumerism in fashion involves the excessive consumption of garments in modern capitalist societies due to the expansion of globalisation, especially at the beginning of the 21st Century. The involvement of new designers in the garment industry has assisted in creating a desire for new trends. However, the fast pace of transitions between collections has made fashion increasingly frivolous and capable of generating considerable interest in new products, accompanied by an increase in the discarding of fabrics. Thus, studies have been conducted on developing sustainable textile materials for use in the fashion industry. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the potential of a vegan leather produced with a dyed, waterproof biopolymer made of reconstituted bacterial cellulose (BC). The dying process involved using plant-based natural dyes extracted from Allium cepa L., Punica granatum, and Eucalyptus globulus L. The BC films were then shredded and reconstituted to produce uniform surfaces with a constant thickness of 0.10 cm throughout the entire area. The films were waterproofed using the essential oil from Melaleuca alternifolia and wax from Copernicia prunifera. The characteristics of the biotechnological vegan leather were analysed using scanning electron microscopy (SEM), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA), flexibility and mechanical tests, as well as the determination of the water contact angle (°) and sorption index (s). The results confirmed that the biomaterial has high tensile strength (maximum: 247.21 ± 16.52 N) and high flexibility; it can be folded more than 100 times at the same point without breaking or cracking. The water contact angle was 83.96°, indicating a small water interaction on the biotextile. The results of the present study demonstrate the potential of BC for the development of novel, durable, vegan, waterproof fashion products.
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Research context

OpenAlex topics: Advanced Cellulose Research Studies · Dyeing and Modifying Textile Fibers · Microbial Metabolism and Applications

SciVX discovery tags are terminology-based. OpenAlex topics are source-provided classifications.

Affiliations

Rede Nordeste de Biotecnologia (RENORBIO), Universidade Federal Rural de Pernambuco (UFRPE), Rua Dom Manuel de Medeiros, Dois Irmãos, Recife 52171-900, PE, Brazil

Instituto Avançado de Tecnologia e Inovação (IATI), Rua Potyra, n. 31, Prado, Recife 52171-900, PE, Brazil

Escola Icam Tech, Universidade Católica de Pernambuco (UNICAP), Rua do Príncipe, n. 526, Boa Vista, Recife 52171-900, PE, Brazil

Centro de Tecnologia em Design de Moda, Faculdade Senac Pernambuco, Rua do Pombal, n. 57, Santo Amaro, Recife 52171-900, PE, Brazil

Centro de Tecnologia e Geociências, Departamento de Engenharia Química, Universidade Federal de Pernambuco (UFPE), Cidade Universitária, s/n, Recife 52171-900, PE, Brazil

Centro de Tecnologia, Departamento de Engenharia Têxtil, Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Norte (UFRN), Avenida Senador Salgado Filho, n. 3000, Lagoa Nova, Natal 59078-970, RN, Brazil

Centro de Comunicação e Design, Centro Acadêmico da Região Agreste, Universidade Federal de Pernambuco (UFPE), BR 104, Km 59, s/n, Nova Caruaru, Caruaru 50670-901, PE, Brazil

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