journal article·2026-06-29Open access

Fragrance Allergens in Cosmetic Products: Current Analytical Strategies and Regulatory Challenges

Maria Celeiro

Applied Sciences· Volume 16· Issue 13

Abstract

Fragrance allergens are widely used in cosmetics and personal care products to make them more attractive to consumers. However, their presence has raised increasing concerns due to their potential to induce allergic contact dermatitis and other adverse health effects. As a result, regulatory authorities have progressively strengthened labelling requirements and restrictions for fragrance allergens in cosmetics, creating new analytical and compliance challenges for both industry and regulatory laboratories. In this context, the development of sensitive, selective, and reliable analytical methodologies has become essential for the identification and quantification of these compounds in complex cosmetic matrices. This review provides a comprehensive overview of analytical methodologies reported between 2015 and 2025 for the determination of fragrance allergens in cosmetic matrices, with a focus on sample preparation. Conventional extraction methodologies are critically discussed together with advanced, miniaturized and microextraction approaches. The advantages, limitations, and applicability for routine quality control and regulatory compliance are critically discussed. Chromatographic developments, including the use of multidimensional approaches, are assessed. Recent regulatory updates are examined, and the challenges related to allergen labelling, low-level detection, matrix complexity, standardization, and harmonization of analytical protocols are also addressed. Finally, future perspectives on innovative analytical tools, and green analytical chemistry approaches are highlighted.
Source: crossref · Quality: baseline

Research context

OpenAlex topics: Contact Dermatitis and Allergies · Effects and risks of endocrine disrupting chemicals · Food Allergy and Anaphylaxis Research

SciVX discovery tags are terminology-based. OpenAlex topics are source-provided classifications.

Affiliations

CRETUS, Department of Analytical Chemistry, Nutrition and Food Science, Universidade de Santiago de Compostela, 15782 Santiago de Compostela, Spain

References (66)

Show source-provided references
1. Cosmetics Europe (2026, April 19). Our Industry. Available online: https://cosmeticseurope.eu/our-industry/.
2. Rubio, L., Pita, A., Garcia-Jares, C., and Lores, M. (2024). Natural extracts and essential oils as ingredients in cosmetics: Search for potential phytomarkers and allergen survey. Cosmetics, 11.10.3390/cosmetics11030084 ↗
3. Traditional uses, phytochemistry, pharmacology and toxicology of Ruta graveolens L.: A critical review and future perspectives10.2147/DDDT.S494417 ↗
4. What is New in Contact Allergy To Cosmetics for Physicians, Cosmetologists, and Cosmetic Users?10.1007/s11882-025-01226-5 ↗
5. European Commission (2009). Regulation
6. (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products. Off. J., 342, 59.
7. The survey of analytical methods for sample preparation and analysis of fragrances in cosmetics and personal care products10.1016/j.trac.2018.01.006 ↗
8. Towards sustainable analytical chemistry10.1016/j.trac.2025.118371 ↗
9. Celeiro, M., Garcia-Jares, C., Llompart, M., and Lores, M. (2021). Recent advances in sample preparation for cosmetics and personal care products analysis. Molecules, 26.10.3390/molecules26164900 ↗
10. Analysis of essential oils through comprehensive two-dimensional gas chromatography: General utility10.1002/ffj.3383 ↗
11. Serb, A.F., Georgescu, M., Onulov, R., Novaconi, C.R., Sisu, E., Bolocan, A., and Sandu, R.E. (2024). Mass-spectrometry-based research of cosmetic ingredients. Molecules, 29.10.3390/molecules29061336 ↗
12. (2012). Methods for Analysis of Allergens—Quantification of Suspected Fragrance Allergens in Consumer Products—Step 1: GC Analysis of Ready-to-Inject Sample (Standard No. NF EN 16274:2012).
13. (2021). Method for Analysis of Allergens—Quantification of an Extended List of 57 Suspected Allergens in Ready to Inject Fragrance Materials by a Gas Chromatography Mass Spectrometry (Standard No. EN 16274:2021).
14. Collaborative validation of the quantification method for 57 allergens in ready to inject fragrance samples10.1002/ffj.3761 ↗
15. Kalinowska-Lis, U. (2025). Overview of active ingredients used in deodorants and antiperspirants available on EU market. Appl. Sci., 15.10.3390/app15095068 ↗
16. Regulatory frameworks for fragrance safety in cosmetics: A global overview10.1007/s43188-025-00283-2 ↗
17. European Commission (2023). Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 of 26 July 2023 amends Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council as regards the labelling of fragrance allergens in cosmetic products. Off. J., 188, 1.
18. Current trends in sample preparation for cosmetic analysis10.1002/jssc.201600367 ↗
19. Papadopoulos, A., Assimomytis, N., and Varvaresou, A. (2022). Sample preparation of cosmetic products for the determination of heavy metals. Cosmetics, 9.10.3390/cosmetics9010021 ↗
20. Positive lists of cosmetic ingredients: Analytical methodology for regulatory and safety controls–a review10.1016/j.aca.2016.02.033 ↗
21. European Commission (2017). Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 of 2 August 2017 amending Annexes II and III to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on cosmetic products. Off. J., 3, 1.
22. European Commission (2021). Commission Regulation (EU) 2021/1902 of 29 October 2021 amends Annexes II, III, and V to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 regarding the use of specific carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic for reproduction (CMR) substances in cosmetic. Off. J., 387, 120.
23. Green analytical chemistry10.1016/j.trac.2008.05.003 ↗
24. The ten principles of greensample preparation10.1016/j.trac.2022.116530 ↗
25. Determination of suspected fragrance allergens extended list by two-dimensional gas chromatography–mass spectrometry in ready-to-inject samples10.1016/j.chroma.2015.05.045 ↗
26. Four-stage (low-) flow modulation comprehensive gas chromatography-quadrupole mass spectrometry for the determination of recently-highlighted cosmetic allergens10.1016/j.chroma.2015.12.002 ↗
27. Market surveillance: Analysis of perfuming products for presence of allergens and prohibited substances10.1007/s11696-022-02225-w ↗
28. Determination of fragrance allergens by ultraviolet femtosecond laser ionization mass spectrometry10.1021/acs.analchem.6b03229 ↗
29. Determination of fragrance allergens and theirdermal sensitization quantitative risk assessment (QRA) in 107 spray perfumes10.1080/15287394.2018.1543232 ↗
30. Ionic liquids as water-compatible GC stationary phases for the analysis of fragrances and essential oils
31. Quantitative analysis of fragrance allergens in various matrixes of cosmetics by liquid-liquid extraction and GC-MS10.38212/2224-6614.3373 ↗
32. HS-GC-MS method for the analysis of fragrance allergens in complex cosmetic matrices10.1016/j.talanta.2014.08.006 ↗
33. Potential and applications of capillary electrophoresis for analyzing traditional Chinese medicine: A critical review10.1039/D1AN00767J ↗
34. Al-Mussallam, A.S., Bawazir, A.T., Alshathri, R.S., Alharthi, O., and Aldawsari, F.S. (2023). Optimization of a gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) method for detecting 28 allergens in various personal care product. Cosmetics, 10.10.3390/cosmetics10030091 ↗
35. Extreme cosmetics and borderline products: An analytical-basedsurvey of European regulation compliance10.1007/s00216-018-1312-3 ↗
36. Celeiro, M., Vazquez, L., Lamas, J.P., Vila, M., Garcia-Jares, C., and Llompart, M. (2019). Miniaturized matrix solid-phase dispersion for the analysis of ultraviolet filters and other cosmetic ingredients in personal care products. Separations, 6.10.3390/separations6020030 ↗
37. Celeiro, M., Rubio, L., Garcia-Jares, C., and Lores, M. (2021). Multi-target strategy to uncover unexpected compounds in rinse-off and leave- on cosmetics. Molecules, 26.10.3390/molecules26092504 ↗
38. Pressurized liquid extraction-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry analysis of fragrance allergens, musks, phthalates and preservatives in baby wipes10.1016/j.chroma.2015.01.049 ↗
39. Development and validation of a gas chromatography-mass spectrometry method for determination of 30 fragrance substances in cosmetic products10.1002/sscp.202000041 ↗
40. Simultaneous determination of 28 fragrance components incosmetics by gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry10.3724/SP.J.1123.2022.03043 ↗
41. The Application of Pipette-Tip and Magnetic Dummy-Template Molecularly Im-printed Solid-Phase Extraction Coupled with High-Performance Liquid Chromatography with Diode Array and Spectrofluorimetric Detection10.3390/pr12030582 ↗
42. Ultrasound: A clean, green extraction technology10.1016/j.trac.2015.04.013 ↗
43. Matrix solid-phase dispersion10.1016/S0021-9673(00)00249-1 ↗
44. Accelerated solvent extraction: A technique for sample preparation10.1021/ac9508199 ↗
45. Fast and easy multiresidue method employing acetonitrile extraction/partitioning and “dispersive solid-phase extraction” for the determination of pesticide residues in produce10.1093/jaoac/86.2.412 ↗
46. Principles and practice of solid-phase extraction
47. Sorptive extraction for personal care products in the environment10.1016/j.trac.2026.118886 ↗
48. Analytical Eco-Scale for assessing the greenness of analytical procedures10.1016/j.trac.2012.03.013 ↗
49. A new tool for the evaluation of the analytical procedure: Green Analytical Procedure Index10.1016/j.talanta.2018.01.013 ↗
50. Bechis, G., Mastellone, G., Marengo, A., Sgorbini, B., Cagliero, C., and Rubiolo, P. (2022). Hydrophobic natural eutectic solvents for the gas chromatographic determination of suspected allergens in fragrances by dispersive liquid-liquid microextraction. Separations, 9.10.3390/separations9100318 ↗
51. Ultrasound-assisted emulsification microextraction coupled with high-perfor-mance liquid chromatography for the simultaneous determination of fragrance allergens in cosmetics and water10.1002/jssc.201401330 ↗
52. Development and validation of a method for the determination of regulated fragrance allergens by High-Performance Liquid Chromatography and parallel factor analysis 210.1016/j.chroma.2017.10.034 ↗
53. Castiñeira-Landeira, A., Vazquez, L., Dagnac, T., Celeiro, M., and Llompart, M. (2023). Allergens and other harmful substances in hydroal-coholic gels: Compliance with current regulation. Meth. Protoc., 6.10.3390/mps6050095 ↗
54. Development of a solid phase microextraction gas chromatography tandem mass spectrometry methodology for the analysis of sixty personal care products in hydroalcoholic gels- hand sanitizers- in the context of COVID-19 pandemic10.1016/j.aca.2022.339650 ↗
55. Validation of SPME-GC-FID method for determination of fragrance allergens in selected cosmetic products10.1556/AChrom.27.2015.3.8 ↗
56. Application of a β-cyclodextrin/graphene oxide-modified fiber for solid-phase microextraction of six fragrance allergens in personal products10.1039/C5AN01030F ↗
57. Novel gas-diffusion microex-traction followed by gas chromatography coupled to tandem mass spectrometry methodology for the determination of fragrance allergens in cosmetic products10.1016/j.sampre.2025.100187 ↗
58. Entrapment of magnetic nanoparticles into poly(divinylbenzene-co-N-vinylpyrrolidone) copolymer for the determination of prohibited and restricted fragrance ingredients in cosmetic products10.1016/j.microc.2022.108044 ↗
59. Dispersive liquid-liquid microextraction10.1016/j.trac.2011.04.014 ↗
60. AGREEprep—Analytical greenness metric for sample preparation10.1016/j.trac.2022.116553 ↗
61. Ultrasound-assisted emulsification-microextrac-tion of emergent contaminants and pesticides in environmental waters10.1016/j.chroma.2008.02.091 ↗
62. Pawliszyn, J. (2023). Chapter 22: Different Approaches Based on Solid-phase Microextraction for the Determination of Personal Care Products. Evolution of Solid-Phase Microextraction Technology, The Royal Society of Chemistry.10.1039/9781839167300 ↗
63. Grau, J., Benedé, J.L., and Chisvert, A. (2020). Use of nanomaterial-based (micro) extraction techniques for the determination of cosmetic-related compounds. Molecules, 25.10.3390/molecules25112586 ↗
64. Gas-diffusion microextraction10.1002/jssc.201000351 ↗
65. Blue applicability grade index (BAGI) and software: A new tool for the evaluation of method practicality10.1039/D3GC02347H ↗
66. Development of stir bar sorptive-dispersive microextraction mediated by magnetic nanoparticles and its analytical application to the determination of hydrophobic organic compounds in aqueous media10.1016/j.chroma.2014.08.024 ↗