journal article·2024-11-17Open access

An Integrated Approach to Develop Innovative, Sustainable, and Effective Cosmetic Ingredients: The Case Report of Fatty-Acids-Enriched Wild Strawberry Waste Extract

Marta Faggian, Silvia Lucchetti, Sara Ferrari, Gabriele De Nadai, Stefano Francescato, Giovanni Baratto, Nicola De Zordi, Silvia-Maria Stanic, Gregorio Peron, Stefania Sut, Alessandra Semenzato, Stefano Dall’Acqua

Applied Sciences· Volume 14· Issue 22

Abstract

The sourcing of raw materials with low environmental impact, e.g., “upcycled” ingredients from short supply chains, has currently become necessary, and agri-food waste represents a very attractive hub to produce innovative cosmetic extracts. In this paper, an integrated approach considering all the different steps, starting from material selection, extraction, chemical characterization, biological activity evaluation, and environmental impact calculation, was adopted to obtain innovative, sustainable, and effective cosmetic raw materials from food waste. As case report, a supercritical CO2 extract obtained from wild-strawberry-processing waste after jam production (WSWSCO2 extract) was developed. The fatty acids profile of the waste material and WSWSCO2 extract was investigated via a GC–MS method, and mainly polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) such as linoleic and linolenic acids were detected. Furthermore, the ability of the WSWSCO2 extract to inhibit 5α-reductase type 1 expression in skin fibroblasts was assessed, confirming significant efficacy at the dose of 5 mg/mL. Finally, in view of the eco-sustainability approach, the environmental impact related to WSWSCO2 extract was calculated using a life cycle assessment (LCA) analytical approach, considering different parameters and indicators (e.g., carbon footprint) and verifying the eco-friendly approach in extract development and production. Although further research is needed, for example, to check the full composition of the extract and its effect on skin cells, these results suggest that the WSWSCO2 extract may represent an innovative and sustainable ingredient for cosmetic applications especially in topical preparation for the treatment of some androgenic-related discomfort, such as acne and androgenic alopecia, reflecting the potentiality of the holistic and pioneering approach related to ingredient development presented in this study for the cosmetic sector.
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Research context

OpenAlex topics: Phytochemicals and Antioxidant Activities · Botanical Research and Applications · Food Science and Nutritional Studies

SciVX discovery tags are terminology-based. OpenAlex topics are source-provided classifications.

Affiliations

Unired srl, Via Niccolò Tommaseo 69, 35131 Padova, Italy

Unifarco spa, Via Cal Longa 62, 32035 Belluno, Italy

Società Agricola Moldoi—S.A.M srl, Loc. Maras Moldoi 151/a, 32037 Belluno, Italy

Department of Molecular and Translational Medicine, University of Brescia, Viale Europa 11, 25123 Brescia, Italy

Department of Pharmaceutical and Pharmacological Sciences, University of Padova, Via Marzolo 5, 35131 Padova, Italy

Funding

Unifarco spa

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