journal article·2025-02-11Open access

New Insights into Common Bean (Phaseolus vulgaris L.) Sprouts: Pilot Studies on the Formulation of a Cosmeceutical Based on Micellar Extracts Bean Sprouts

Katarzyna Wojciechowska, Ewelina Rostkowska, Grażyna Ginalska, Łukasz Zimmer, Ewa Poleszak

Applied Sciences· Volume 15· Issue 4

Abstract

The search for new active plant ingredients is crucial for the development of innovative cosmetic products. Micellar extracts from plant raw materials are not yet widely popular in cosmetics; however, scientific reports suggest that this form of extract is superior to standard extracts due to its enhanced ability to solubilize active compounds, improve their stability, and facilitate better penetration into the skin. For this reason, our research focuses on an innovative in its applicative form micellar extract from common bean sprouts (Phaseolus vulgaris L.) with a favorable composition and promising biological activity. The aim of this study was to develop a cream formulation containing this extract and evaluate its effects using in vivo tests. Six formulations were assessed for their physicochemical properties, and a comparative analysis was conducted against a reference cream and placebo cream. For the in vivo efficacy tests, the cream, which exhibited optimal physicochemical properties and long-term stability, was selected and tested on a group of 45 volunteers. The evaluation utilized Multi-Probe Adapter Systems to compare the cream with the micellar extract, a placebo cream (cream without the extract), and a reference antiaging cream. Results demonstrated that the formulation with micellar extract exhibited superior moisturizing, antiaging, and skin-brightening properties compared to the control groups. After 12 weeks of application, the micellar extract cream improved skin hydration by 22.31%, while the placebo cream showed only a 3.52% increase, and the reference cream achieved a 13.96% improvement. The antiaging effect, assessed based on improvements in skin elasticity parameters (R2 and R5), showed increases of 13.30% and 12.33% for the micellar extract cream, compared to 8.5% and 2.32% for the placebo cream and 6.38% and 3.82% for the reference cream, respectively. In conclusion, the common bean sprouts micellar extract shows potential as an effective active ingredient for skin care products, highlighting its promising applications in the cosmetics industry.
Source: crossref · Quality: baseline

Research context

OpenAlex topics: Bee Products Chemical Analysis · Proteins in Food Systems · Phytochemicals and Antioxidant Activities

SciVX discovery tags are terminology-based. OpenAlex topics are source-provided classifications.

Affiliations

Department and Chair of Applied Pharmacy, Medical University of Lublin, Chodzki 1, 20-093 Lublin, Poland

Student Research Group, Department and Chair of Applied Pharmacy, Medical University of Lublin, Chodzki 1, 20-093 Lublin, Poland

Faculty of Health, Vincent Pol University in Lublin, Choiny 2, 20-816 Lublin, Poland

References (39)

Show source-provided references
1. A review on Phaseolus vulgaris Linn10.5530/pj.2020.12.163 ↗
2. Phaseolus vulgaris L. as a functional food for aging protection. Oxidative Stress and Dietary Antioxidants10.1016/B978-0-12-818698-5.00029-8 ↗
3. Fonseca-Hernándezn, D., Lugo-Cervantes, E.D.C., Escobedo-Reyes, A., and Mojica, L. (2021). Black bean (Phaseolus vulgaris L.) polyphenolic extract exerts antioxidant and antiaging potential. Molecules, 26.10.3390/molecules26216716 ↗
4. The influences of Phaseolus radiatus L. Ethanol extracts and fractions on skin whitening and anti-inflammatory effects
5. Oh, S., Zheng, S., Fang, M., Kim, M., Bellere, A.D., Jeong, J., and Yi, T.-H. (2023). Anti-photoaging effect of Phaseolus angularis L. Extract on UVB-exposed HaCaT keratinocytes and possibilities as cosmetic materials. Molecules, 28.10.3390/molecules28031407 ↗
6. Formulation of Phaseolus vulgaris L. Cream and its characterization
7. Peñas, E., and Martínez-Villaluenga, C. (2020). Advances in production, properties and applications of sprouted seeds. Foods, 9.10.3390/foods9060790 ↗
8. Lotus sprout extract induces selective melanosomal autophagy and reduces pigmentation10.1111/jocd.16587 ↗
9. A study on peanut sprouts extract as the anti-oxidant activity and the skin whitening cosmetic ingredients10.7841/ksbbj.2016.31.1.14 ↗
10. Vegetable sprouts: A potent source for cosmetic actives
11. Rostkowska, E., Poleszak, E., Przekora, A., Wójcik, M., Typek, R., Wojciechowska, K., and Dos Santos Szewczyk, K. (2024). Novel insights into Phaseolus vulgaris L. sprouts: Phytochemical analysis and anti-aging properties. Molecules, 29.10.3390/molecules29133058 ↗
12. Sikora, E. (2019). Cosmetics Emulsions, Wydawnictwo Politechniki Krakowskiej.
13. Investigations on the occlusive properties of solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN)
14. Spreading of semisolid formulations: An update
15. Comparison of sensory and rheological properties of green cosmetic creams prepared on different natural, ECOCERT, and BDIH certificated self-emulsifying bases10.2478/cipms-2021-0039 ↗
16. Rheological and textural properties of cosmetic emulsions
17. Design and characterization of topical formulations: Correlations between instrumental and sensorial measurements10.1208/s12249-018-0960-0 ↗
18. Influence of oil phase concentration on droplet size distribution and stability of oil-in-water emulsions10.1002/ejlt.201100321 ↗
19. Dependence of creaming and rheology of monodisperse oil-in-water emulsions on droplet size and concentration10.1016/S0927-7757(00)00551-3 ↗
20. Natural skin surface pH is on average below 5, which is beneficial for its resident flora10.1111/j.1467-2494.2006.00344.x ↗
21. Deuschle, V.C.K.N., Deuschle, R.A.N., Bortoluzzi, M.R., and Athayde, M.L. (2015). Physical chemistry evaluation of stability, spreadability, in vitro antioxidant, and photo-protective capacities of topical formulations containing Calendula officinalis L. leaf extract. Braz. J. Pharm. Sci., 51.10.1590/S1984-82502015000100007 ↗
22. The influence of thickeners on the rheological and sensory properties of cosmetic lotions
23. Adejokun, D.A., and Dodou, K. (2020). A novel method for the evaluation of the long-term stability of cream formulations containing natural oils. Cosmetics, 7.10.3390/cosmetics7040086 ↗
24. Comparative study of five instruments measuring stratum corneum hydration (Corneometer CM 820 and CM 825, Skicon 200, Nova DPM 9003, Dermalab). Part I: In vitro10.1111/j.1600-0846.1999.tb00126.x ↗
25. Courage Website, and Khazaka Electric GmbH (2024, June 29). Corneometer® CM 825. Available online: https://www.courage-khazaka.com/en/scientific-products/corneometer-cm-825.
26. Multicentre comparison of skin hydration in terms of physical-, physiological- and product-dependent parameters by the capacitance method (Corneometer CM 825)10.1046/j.1467-2494.2003.00172.x ↗
27. Age-related changes in skin mechanical properties: A quantitative evaluation of 120 female subjects10.1111/j.1600-0846.2010.00486.x ↗
28. High-Frequency Ultrasound with Color Doppler in Dermatology10.1590/abd1806-4841.20164446 ↗
29. The reliability of non-invasive biophysical outcome measures for evaluating normal and hyperkeratotic foot skin10.1186/s13047-015-0083-8 ↗
30. The influences of skin viscoelasticity, hydration level, and aging on the formation of wrinkles: A comprehensive and objective approach10.1111/j.1600-0846.2012.00650.x ↗
31. Regional and seasonal variations in facial sebum secretions: A proposal for the definition of combination skin type10.1111/j.1600-0846.2005.00119.x ↗
32. Method for quantification of oils and sebum levels on skin using the Sebumeter®10.1111/ics.12258 ↗
33. Effectiveness of a combination of anti-pigmentary products in facial post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation10.18203/issn.2455-4529.IntJResDermatol20195199 ↗
34. Improvement of the methods for skin mechanical properties evaluation through correlation between different techniques and factor analysis10.1111/srt.12060 ↗
35. Skin-whitening and skin-condition-improving effects of topical oxidized glutathione: A double-blind and placebo-controlled clinical trial in healthy women10.2147/CCID.S68424 ↗
36. Rostkowska, E., Poleszak, E., Wojciechowska, K., and Dos Santos Szewczyk, K. (2023). Dermatological management of aged skin. Cosmetics, 10.10.3390/cosmetics10020055 ↗
37. Trojahn, C., Dobos, G., Lichterfeld, A., Blume-Peytavi, U., and Kottner, J. (2015). Characterizing facial skin ageing in humans: Disentangling extrinsic from intrinsic biological phenomena. Hindawi BioMed Res. Int.10.1155/2015/318586 ↗
38. Fluhr, J., and Darlenski, R. (2013). Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL). Non-Invasive Diagnostic Techniques in Clinical Dermatology, Springer.10.1007/978-3-642-32109-2_32 ↗
39. Zięba, M., Czerwonka, D., and Ruszkowska, M. (2024). Micellar extracts obtained from Bistortae rhizoma, Fraxinus excelsior, and Romex crispus as components of hair shampoos. De Gruyter.10.1515/tsd-2024-2587 ↗