Recent Trends on UV filters
Source abstract
Abstract
UV filters are the shield ingredients of sunscreens against the negative effects of solar radiation. Since the discovery of the first UV filter, nearly 30 filters have become commercially available. Over the years, innovation and regulatory updates have driven their use by the cosmetic industry. This work aimed to characterize commercial sunscreens and unveil the main trends by analyzing the labels of 444 sunscreen formulations that are currently being marketed. Avobenzone, octocrylene, and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine were the three UV filters with the highest usage frequencies (>40%). Emulsified preparations and sprays were the preferred forms, while the most frequent SPF was 50+. Differences were noted between adult and children’s sunscreens, namely the higher usage of inorganic filters for the latter. Over the past few years, the five most used UV filters remained the same, but octocrylene, ethylhexyl salicylate, and nano methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol had decreased usage. An increasing tendency towards the use of the inorganic UV filter titanium oxide was also observed. Overall, this study characterized the true market impact of approved UV filters and how the market has evolved over recent years. This insight can help pave the way for the design of new UV filters and is helpful for the assessment of environmental risks.
Source: crossref · Quality: baseline
Research context
OpenAlex topics: Skin Protection and Aging · Indoor Air Quality and Microbial Exposure · Photodynamic Therapy Research Studies
SciVX discovery tags are terminology-based. OpenAlex topics are source-provided classifications.
Affiliations
UCIBIO—Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, MedTech, Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Technology, Department of Drug Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
Associate Laboratory i4HB—Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
Laboratory of Pharmaceutical and Organic Chemistry, Department of Chemical Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto, 4050-313 Porto, Portugal
CIIMAR—Interdisciplinar Centre of Marine and Environmental Research, Avenida General Norton de Matos, S/N, 4450-208 Matosinhos, Portugal
Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Coimbra, 3004-531 Coimbra, Portugal
Center for Neurosciences and Cell Biology, 3004-504 Coimbra, Portugal
Funding
FCT—Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia · Research Unit on Applied Molecular Biosciences (UCIBIO) · Associate Laboratory Institute for Health and Bioeconomy (i4HB) · Group of Natural Products and Medicinal Chemistry—CIIMAR · European Regional Development Fund (ERDF) · Centro 2020 Regional Operational Programme · Northern Regional Operational Program (NORTE2020)
References (47)
Show source-provided references
1. Shaath, N. (2005). Sunscreens: Regulations and Commercial Development, Taylor & Francis. [3rd ed.].
2. Sunscreen products: Rationale for use, formulation development and regulatory considerations10.1016/j.jsps.2019.08.003 ↗
3. Abiola, T.T., Whittock, A.L., and Stavros, V.G. (2020). Unravelling the Photoprotective Mechanisms of Nature-Inspired Ultraviolet Filters Using Ultrafast Spectroscopy. Molecules, 25.10.3390/molecules25173945 ↗
4. The historical aspects of sunscreens10.1016/S1011-1344(01)00202-0 ↗
5. History of sunscreen: An updated view10.1111/jocd.14004 ↗
6. Sonnenbrand und Sonnenbraunung
7. L’Oreal (2022, January 06). Garnier Ambre Solaire. Available online: https://www.loreal.com/it-it/italy/press-release/group/garnier-ambre-solaire/.
8. Sunscreen Compounds10.1002/jps.3030371111 ↗
9. Historical perspective: The PABA story10.1046/j.1440-0960.1999.00319.x ↗
10. (2022, April 20). Commission Directive 2008/123/EC of 18 December 2008 Amending Council Directive 76/768/EEC, Concerning Cosmetic Products, for the Purpose of Adapting Annexes II and VII Thereto to Technical Progress, Available online: https://www.legislation.gov.uk/eudr/2008/123/contents.
11. Early Destructive Effect of Sunlight on Human Skin10.1001/jama.1969.03160390039008 ↗
12. A Survey of Ultraviolet Absorbers in Commercially Available Sun Products10.1111/j.1365-4362.1983.tb03378.x ↗
13. Chisvert, A., and Salvador, A. (2018). Ultraviolet Filters in Cosmetics: Regulatory Aspects and Analytical Methods. Analysis of Cosmetic Products, Elsevier. [2nd ed.].10.1016/B978-0-444-63508-2.00005-9 ↗
14. (2022, January 06). Regulation (EC) n°1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council: Current Consolidated Version (01/03/2022). 2022, Official Journal of the European Union. 02009R1223—EN—03.12.2020—025.001—(1–389). Available online: https://www.google.com.hk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwimro215MX7AhUUslYBHficAmwQFnoECA0QAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Feur-lex.europa.eu%2Flegal-content%2FEN%2FTXT%2FPDF%2F%3Furi%3DCELEX%3A02009R1223-20201203%26rid%3D3&usg=AOvVaw0EQqca4O9KBjZxFMiFsLy0.
15. Cellular and stress protein responses to the UV filter 3-benzylidene camphor in the amphipod crustacean Gammarus fossarum (Koch 1835)10.1007/s00244-007-9072-7 ↗
16. The Chemical UV-Filter 3-Benzylidene Camphor Causes an Oestrogenic Effect in an in vivo Fish Assay10.1034/j.1600-0773.2002.t01-3-910403.x ↗
17. Jesus, A., Sousa, E., Cruz, M.T., Cidade, H., Lobo, J.M.S., and Almeida, I.F. (2022). UV Filters: Challenges and Prospects. Pharmaceuticals, 15.10.3390/ph15030263 ↗
18. (2010). Cosmetics—Sun Protection Test Methods—In Vivo Determination of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) (Standard No. ISO 24444:2010).
19. (2019). Cosmetics—Sun Protection Test Methods—In Vivo Determination of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) (Standard No. ISO 24444:2019).
20. (2012). Determination of Sunscreen UVA Photoprotection In Vitro (Standard No. ISO 24443:2012).
21. (2021). Cosmetics—Determination of Sunscreen UVA Photoprotection In Vitro (Standard No. ISO 24443:2021).
22. (2011). Cosmetics—Sun Protection Test Methods—In Vivo Determination of Sunscreen UVA Protection (Standard No. ISO 24442:2011).
23. Formulation of sunscreens for optimal efficacy
24. Dahmane, R., Pandel, R., Trebse, P., and Poljsak, B. (2015). The role of sun exposure in skin aging. Sun Exposure: Risk Factors, Protection Practices and Health Effects, Nova Science Publishers, Inc.
25. Bonda, C.A., and Lott, D. (2016). Sunscreen photostability. Principles and Practice of Photoprotection, Springer International Publishing.10.1007/978-3-319-29382-0_14 ↗
26. Changes in ultraviolet absorption of sunscreens after ultraviolet irradiation10.1046/j.1523-1747.1999.00721.x ↗
27. Benzophenone Accumulates over Time from the Degradation of Octocrylene in Commercial Sunscreen Products10.1021/acs.chemrestox.0c00461 ↗
28. Insights into the stabilization of photolabile UV-absorbers in sunscreens10.1039/d0pp00335b ↗
29. Wolverton, S.E., and Wu, J.J. (2020). Comprehensive Dermatologic Drug Therapy, Elsevier. [4th ed.].
30. (2022, January 06). Regulation (EC) n° 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council: Current Consolidated Version (01/10/2021), Official Journal of the European Union L.342/59-209. Available online: https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/ALL/?uri=celex%3A32009R1223.
31. Fabian, F. (2022, January 06). BASF Pushes UV Filter Production Capacities. Available online: https://www.basf.com/global/en/media/news-releases/2019/12/p-19-422.html.
32. Whitehouse, L. (2022, January 06). Nano-Sized UV Filter Passes EU Cosmetic Regulation 2018. Available online: https://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Article/2018/08/03/Nano-sized-UV-filter-passes-EU-Cosmetic-Regulation.
33. (2022, January 06). BASF Gains EU Approval of Nano-Sized UV Filter in Cosmetics 2018. Available online: https://www.basf.com/global/en/media/news-releases/2018/07/p-18-276.html.
34. (2022, January 06). EU Updates the Use of Nano Titanium Dioxide in Cosmetics with a Warning. Available online: https://www.sgs.com/en/news/2019/12/safeguards-17919-eu-updates-the-use-of-nano-titanium-dioxide-in-cosmetics-with-warning.
35. Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) (2016). Opinion on Additional Coatings for Titanium Dioxide (Nano Form) as UV-Filter in Dermally Applied Cosmetic Products, Unit C2, European Commission Health and Food Safety. Preliminary Version SCCS/1580/16.
36. Update on photoprotection10.1111/j.1529-8019.2007.00150.x ↗
37. Mendrok-Edinger, C. (2021, November 15). The Quest for Avobenzone Stabilizers and Sunscreen Photostability. Available online: https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulas-products/sun-care/article/21836968/the-quest-for-avobenzone-stabilizers-and-sunscreen-photostability.
38. Combination of retinyl palmitate and UV-filters: Phototoxic risk assessment based on photostability and in vitro and in vivo phototoxicity assays10.1016/j.ejps.2014.12.007 ↗
39. A short review of alternative ingredients and technologies of inorganic UV filters10.1111/jocd.13694 ↗
40. Photoallergic contact dermatitis10.1111/j.1600-0781.2010.00494.x ↗
41. Factors that influence sunscreen application thickness and potential preservative exposure10.1111/phpp.12171 ↗
42. Ultraviolet filters in sunscreens and cosmetic products—A market survey10.1111/cod.13777 ↗
43. Estrogenic and Anti-Androgenic Activities of Benzophenones in Human Estrogen and Androgen Receptor Mediated Mammalian Reporter Gene Assays10.1248/jhs.51.48 ↗
44. (2022, May 20). Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol. Available online: https://incidecoder.com/ingredients/methylene-bis-benzotriazolyl-tetramethylbutylphenol.
45. Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (2022, April 20). Opinion on 2,2′-Methylene-bis-(6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3tetramethylbutyl)phenol) (Nano Form): Submission III, COLIPA S79, European Commission 2018, SCCS/1546/15. Available online: https://data.europa.eu/doi/10.2875/101475.
46. Contact allergy to Tinosorb(R) M: Recommendations for diagnostic improvement10.1111/cod.12159 ↗
47. Photopatch testing: Recommendations for a European photopatch test baseline series10.1111/cod.12037 ↗