Spreading of Dangerous Skin-Lightening Products as a Result of Colourism: A Review
Source abstract
Abstract
The use of bleaching products can have a medical or cosmetic purpose; in the latter case, skin whitening is most widespread in countries where darker skin tones prevail and can be driven by psychosocial, cultural and economic reasons. Skin-whitening products containing highly toxic active ingredients (in particular mercury derivatives, hydroquinone and corticosteroids) are easily found on the market; the use of these depigmenting agents can be followed by a variety of adverse effects, with very serious and sometimes fatal complications, and is currently an emerging health concern in many countries. This article concisely discusses the reasons for the current prevalence of skin lightening products and provides an overview of the skin lightening agents that pose a threat to human health. The review also reports market surveillance data on the circulation of banned skin lighteners in Europe, obtained through the Safety Gate system.
Source: crossref · Quality: baseline
Research context
OpenAlex topics: Skin Protection and Aging · melanin and skin pigmentation · Dye analysis and toxicity
SciVX discovery tags are terminology-based. OpenAlex topics are source-provided classifications.
Affiliations
Dipartimento di Scienze Mediche, Chirurgiche e Sperimentali, University of Sassari, Viale San Pietro, 07100 Sassari, Italy
References (68)
Show source-provided references
1. Downregulation of melanogenesis: Drug discovery and therapeutic options10.1016/j.drudis.2016.09.016 ↗
2. Quantitative analysis of eumelanin and pheomelanin in human, mice, and other animals: A comparative review10.1034/j.1600-0749.2003.00072.x ↗
3. Melanin acts as a potent UVB photosensitizer to cause an atypical mode of cell death in murine skin10.1073/pnas.0403994101 ↗
4. Melanogenesis: A photoprotective response to DNA damage?10.1016/j.mrfmmm.2004.11.016 ↗
5. A systematic review on the skin whitening products and their ingredients for safety, health risk and the halal status10.1111/jocd.13691 ↗
6. The phenomenon of skin lightening: Is it right to be light?10.17159/sajs.2016/20160056 ↗
7. Eagle, L., Dahl, S., and Low, D.R. (2014, January 1–3). Ethical issues in the marketing of skin lightening products. Proceedings of the Australian and New Zealand Marketing Academy Conference ANZMAC, Brisbane, Australia.
8. Burger, P., Landreau, A., Azoulay, S., Michel, T., and Fernandez, X. (2016). Skin whitening cosmetics: Feedback and challenges in the development of natural skin lighteners. Cosmetics, 3.10.3390/cosmetics3040036 ↗
9. Couteau, C., and Coiffard, L. (2016). Overview of skin whitening agents: Drugs and cosmetic products. Cosmetics, 3.10.3390/cosmetics3030027 ↗
10. Traditional Asian herbs in skin whitening; The current development and limitations10.3389/fphar.2020.00982 ↗
11. Opperman, L., De Kock, M., Klaasen, J., and Rahiman, F. (2020). Tyrosinase and melanogenesis inhibition by indigenous African plants: A review. Cosmetics, 7.10.3390/cosmetics7030060 ↗
12. Naidoo, L., Khoza, N., and Dlova, N.C. (2016). A fairer face, a fairer tomorrow? A review of skin lighteners. Cosmetics, 3.10.3390/cosmetics3030033 ↗
13. Million Insights (2022, January 25). Skin Lightening Products Market Analysis Report by Product, by Nature, by Region and Segment Forecasts from 2019 to 2025. Available online: https://www.millioninsights.com/industry-reports/global-skin-lightening-products-market.
14. Skin bleaching and dermatological health of African and Afro-Caribbean populations in the US; new directions for methodologically rigorous, multidisciplinary, and culturally sensitive research10.1007/s13555-016-0154-1 ↗
15. The dark side of skin lightening: An international collaboration and review of a public health issue affecting dermatology10.1016/j.ijwd.2020.09.006 ↗
16. Skin Lightening and Beauty in Four Asian Cultures
17. All’s Fair in Love and Cream: A cultural case study of Fair & Lovely in India10.1353/asr.0.0003 ↗
18. Skin color, cultural capital, and beauty products: An investigation of the use of skin fairness products in Mumbai, India10.3389/fpubh.2017.00365 ↗
19. Influence of skin ageing features on Chinese women’s perception of facial age and attractiveness10.1111/ics.12128 ↗
20. Skin bleaching: Highlighting the misuse of cutaneous depigmenting agents10.1111/j.1468-3083.2009.03150.x ↗
21. Mercury, hydroquinone and clobetasol propionate in skin lightening products in West Africa and Canada10.1016/j.envres.2016.06.030 ↗
22. Mercury exposure associated with use of skin lightening products in Jamaica10.5696/2156-9614-10.26.200601 ↗
23. Inhibition of Tyrosinase by Mercury Chloride: Spectroscopic and Docking Studies10.3389/fphar.2020.00081 ↗
24. Human exposure and health effects of inorganic and elemental mercury10.3961/jpmph.2012.45.6.344 ↗
25. Abbas, H.H., Sakakibara, M., Sera, K., and Andayanie, E. (2020). Mercury exposure and health problems of the students using skin-lightening cosmetic products in Makassar, South Sulawesi, Indonesia. Cosmetics, 7.10.3390/cosmetics7030058 ↗
26. Inorganic mercury poisoning associated with skin-lightening cosmetic products10.3109/15563650.2011.626425 ↗
27. Mercury toxicity and contamination of households from the use of skin creams adulterated with mercurous chloride (calomel)10.3390/ijerph120910943 ↗
28. Exposure data for cosmetic products: Lipstick, body lotion, and face cream10.1016/j.fct.2004.09.016 ↗
29. Spectrometric analysis of mercury content in 549 skin-lightening products: Is mercury toxicity a hidden global health hazard?10.1016/j.jaad.2013.09.050 ↗
30. Mercury toxicity due to the use of a cosmetic cream10.1097/00043764-200001000-00004 ↗
31. Mercury poisoning associated with a Mexican beauty cream10.1136/ewjm.173.1.15 ↗
32. Photochemical estimation of mercuric chloride by Eder’s reaction with ceric ion as sensitizer10.1007/BF00444794 ↗
33. Measurement of mercurous chloride vapor pressure10.1039/b000238k ↗
34. Widespread use of toxic skin lightening compounds: Medical and psychosocial aspects10.1016/j.det.2010.08.010 ↗
35. Mercury “bleaching” creams10.1016/j.jaad.2005.01.136 ↗
36. Murerva, R., Gwala, F., Amuti, T., and Muange, M. (Int. J. Med. Stud., 2022). Childhood effects of pre-natal and post-natal exposure to mercurial skin lightening agents. Literature review, Int. J. Med. Stud., in press.10.5195/ijms.2021.850 ↗
37. Mercury levels in locally manufactured Mexican skin-lightening creams10.3390/ijerph8062516 ↗
38. Mercury and hydroquinone content of skin toning creams and cosmetic soaps, and the potential risks to the health of Ghanaian women10.1186/s40064-016-1967-1 ↗
39. Boo, Y.C. (2021). Arbutin as a skin depigmenting agent with antimelanogenic and antioxidant properties. Antioxidants, 10.10.3390/antiox10071129 ↗
40. Toxicology and health risks of hydroquinone in skin lightening formulations10.1111/j.1468-3083.2005.01218.x ↗
41. Skin lightening preparations and the hydroquinone controversy10.1111/j.1529-8019.2007.00144.x ↗
42. Mechanism of depigmentation by hydroquinone10.1111/1523-1747.ep12701679 ↗
43. Effects of hydroquinone on cytoskeletal organization and intracellular transport in cultured Xenopous laevis melanophores and fibroblasts10.5402/2012/524781 ↗
44. Profile of depigmenting cosmetics and dermatological products on the market10.4322/2179-443X.0643 ↗
45. In vitro dermal absorption of hydroquinone: Protocol validation and applicability on illegal skin-whitening cosmetics10.1159/000454719 ↗
46. Hydroquinones cause specific mutations and lead to cellular transformation and in vivo tumorigenesis10.1038/bjc.1998.492 ↗
47. The safety of hydroquinone10.1111/j.1468-3083.2006.01670.x ↗
48. Exogenous ochronosis after prolonged use of topical hydroquinone (2%) in a 50-year-old Indian female10.4103/0019-5154.100498 ↗
49. Exogenous ochronosis10.4103/0019-5154.169122 ↗
50. Complications of chronic use of skin lightening cosmetics10.1111/j.1365-4632.2008.02719.x ↗
51. Squamous cell carcinoma associated with prolonged bleaching
52. First case of squamous cell carcinoma associated with cosmetic use of bleaching compounds10.1016/j.annder.2009.12.008 ↗
53. Squamous cell carcinoma associated with cosmetic use of bleaching agents: About a case in Ivory Coast10.1159/000504596 ↗
54. (2022, January 21). Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 16 December 2008 on Classification, Labelling and Packaging of Substances and Mixtures, Amending and Repealing Directives 67/548/EEC and 1999/45/EC, and Amending Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006. Available online: https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/PDF/?uri=CELEX:32008R1272&from=EN.
55. Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) (2015). Opinion on α-Arbutin, Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety. SCCS/1550/15.
56. Topical glucocorticoids and the skin-mechanisms of action: An update10.1080/09629359891126 ↗
57. Misuse of topical corticosteroids: A clinical study of adverse effects10.4103/2229-5178.142486 ↗
58. Misuse of topical corticosteroids for cosmetic purpose in Antananarivo, Madagascar10.1155/2017/9637083 ↗
59. Inhaled corticosteroid-induced hair depigmentation in a child
60. Skin lightening and its complications among African people living in Paris10.1016/j.jaad.2006.05.044 ↗
61. Observations on the systemic effect of topical clobetasol propionate (Dermovate)10.1136/bmj.4.5990.203 ↗
62. United Nations Environment Programme (2021, September 20). Minamata Convention on Mercury. Available online: https://www.mercuryconvention.org/en/resources/minamata-convention-mercury-text-and-annexes.
63. (2021, September 10). Regulation (EC) 1223/2009, of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009, Official Journal of European Union L 342/59 (22 December 2009). Available online: https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/PDF/?uri=CELEX:32009R1223&from=EN.
64. (2022, January 20). Regulation (EU) No 344/2013 of 4 April 2013, Amending Annexes II, III and VI to Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and the Council on Cosmetic Products. Available online: https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/PDF/?uri=CELEX:32013R0344&from=IT.
65. (2021, September 03). Code of Federal Regulations, Title 21, Chapter I, Part 700, Subpart B, Section 700.13. Use of Mercury Compounds in Cosmetics Including Use as Skinbleaching Agents in Cosmetic Preparations also Regarded as Drugs, Available online: https://www.govinfo.gov/content/pkg/CFR-2012-title21-vol7/pdf/CFR-2012-title21-vol7-sec700-13.pdf.
66. CIR Expert Panel (2022, February 03). Amended Safety Assessment of Hydroquinone as Used in Cosmetics. Available online: https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/hydroquinone.pdf.
67. (2022, February 03). Coronavirus Aid, Relief, and Economic Security Act (CARES Act), Available online: https://www.congress.gov/116/plaws/publ136/PLAW-116publ136.pdf.
68. (2021, August 13). Safety Gate: The EU Rapid Alert System for Dangerous Non-Food Products. Available online: https://ec.europa.eu/safety-gate-alerts/screen/search.