Development of a parametric production jacket pattern for an automated pattern-making system

Abstract Automating the drafting process significantly reduces time and cost, previously dependent on the personal intuition and expertise of pattern makers. Moreover, it has the potential to contribute to the automation of the entire production process. However, the integration of algorithms into the patterns is necessary to automate the drafting of patterns directly on computers based on the pattern maker's intuition. Parametric patterns, which express the silhouette, a formative constraint intimately linked to the pattern, through drafting formulas utilizing key body dimensions as variables, present a promising alternative for the automation of the drafting process. This study develops parametric production patterns for automated garment manufacturing processes by integrating ease allowances and design elements into basic patterns. Leveraging the zero-ease allowance pattern from previous studies, we created basic parametric patterns by incorporating constant values into the ratio formula of parametric nude patterns. Subsequently, the rules for applying design elements were added to develop production patterns of various sizes. The developed patterns were compared with those generated using conventional grading methods. The results indicate that the parametric production patterns closely maintain fit and silhouette, demonstrating their potential as automated alternatives to conventional drafting methods solely based on size specifications and body measurements. Furthermore, we believe that through subsequent studies and analyzing a broader range of garment types and sizes, the methodology of the parametric production pattern developed in this research will contribute to establishing foundational algorithms for automating the process of garment pattern generation.