Xanthoproteic reaction for the evaluation of wool antifelting treatments

The substances responsible for the yellowing of wool treated with nitric acid are two amino acid constituents of the fibre: tryptophan and tyrosine. Nitric acid penetrates the fibres and carries out electrophilic aromatic substitution on the two above‐mentioned amino acid residues, producing different colour yields. The intensity of yellowing depends in various ways on the treatment conditions (time, temperature, nitric acid concentration, agitation, and liquor ratio). Yellowing evaluation shows abnormal yellowing depending on acid concentration in the range 5.6–5.9 m. Working in this region makes it possible to use the chromatic reaction in order to show the damage done to wool fibres by the oxidising agents utilised in normal antifelting treatments. Wool damage by the oxidants is usually evaluated by dyeing methods based on different affinity of damaged fibres. By contrast, the xanthoproteic reaction yields chromogens as a function of the accessibility of tryptophan and tyrosine residues for the action of nitric acid on damaged fibres, and can be used for assessing the degree of antifelting treatment and its possible unevenness through the development on the treated wool of a yellow coloration more intense than on untreated wool.