Developing a zero‐AOX shrink‐resist process for wool. Part 1: Preliminary results

The efficiency of the proteolytic enzyme papain in conferring shrink‐resistance to wool tops and woven fabrics has been enhanced by pretreatment of the wool with lipase/sodium monoperoxyphthalate/sodium sulphite. This process may be considered as a zero‐AOX shrink‐proofing treatment. The wool samples treated with this system show excellent shrink‐proofed properties. Infrared spectroscopy and X‐ray photoelectron spectroscopy showed that the Buntë salt together with low concentrations of cystine monoxide and cystine dioxide are formed in the course of the reaction. Studies of the surface of the treated wool using scanning electron microscopy have shown the complete absence of wool scales. A mechanism is proposed for shrink resistance in the lipase/sodium monoperoxyphthalate/papain treatment.