Handle of Weft Knit Fabrics

Two groups of weft-knitted fabrics, single and double knits, were selected to represent typical summer T-shirts and winter sportswear such as sweaters and other knit tops. Two kinds of analyses were performed: subjective overall handle and primary sensory factors were evaluated using a 99 point polar-word scale, and physical and thermal properties were characterized using the Kawabata evaluation system. Regression analysis was used to relate subjective and objective measurements. The handle of single knits was strongly related to the perception of softness and lightness; the handle of double knits was influenced by the perception of slickness and tightness. Surface friction and weight were associated with the hand ranking of single knits. Fabric surface roughness and bending hysteresis were physical properties that correlated with the hand ranking for double knits. The handle of plain knit loop structures was rated better than that of tuck-loop knits. For summer T-shirt material, single jersey was the preferred choice; for winter sportswear, interlock knits were preferred to other double knits.