A novel method of identifying sewing damage in single jersey fabrics

Purpose This paper suggests a new method for determining the sewing damage that occurs in single jersey fabrics based on the calculation of the needle hole area. This paper also aims to investigate the effects of material type, sewing parameters, and repeated washing cycles on sewing damage by using this method. Design/methodology/approach Six knitted fabrics, differing in structure and raw material, were produced. Samples were sewn using different sewing parameters, and they were subjected to ten washing cycles. Values of average needle hole area, an objective indicator of sewing damage, were calculated before and after repeated washing cycles using image analysis software and were evaluated statistically. Findings The results showed that the average needle hole area calculated via the image analysis software effectively estimates sewing damage as the results obtained were compatible with those stated in the literature. Furthermore, fabric type, sewing direction, sewing thread type, and needle size significantly affected the sewing damage. However, stitch density did not affect the sewing damage. When the effect of washing cycles was compared, it was seen that washing leads to an increase in sewing damage. Originality/value A review of the existing literature shows that no previous study has evaluated sewing damage using image analysis software. This study proposes a novel objective method to determine the sewing damage that occurs in knitted fabrics.