Automatic custom pattern generation using width-height independent grading

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to develop an automated custom-pattern-making system using the width-height independent grading method for semi-customized clothing. Design/methodology/approach – The system reads basic patterns and graded large patterns and calculates the grading ratio of independent horizontal and vertical values on all points in a pattern. The custom pattern is automatically generated by calculating the horizontal and vertical grading amount according to individual body measurements. The system does not follow any complicated alteration rules. Findings – The width-height independent grading method can provide custom-pattern fitted primary body circumference and length and helps to quickly produce semi-customized clothing. Originality/value – There are few studies on automated custom-pattern-making systems without an alteration rule. This study developed an automatic custom-pattern-making system using the width-height independent grading method.