Influence of structure and stretch on air permeability of compression knits

Purpose Air permeability has a valuable role in comfort parameters. It is known that air permeability of elastomeric yarns is firmly low. Despite that, usage of elastomeric inlay-yarns is the most common and the most effective way to generate compression for knitted textile. This study aims to investigate the influence of elastomeric inlay-yarn linear density, insertion density and elongation of the sample to the air permeability of compression knitted materials. Design/methodology/approach Two different types of knitting patterns were investigated: rib 1 × 1 pattern with different elastomeric inlay-yarn linear density (four variants) and insertion density (without inlay yarn and with inlay-yarns inserted into every single, second or fourth course) and combined laid-in jacquard pattern. The air permeability test for these structures was performed without any deformation and at 10 and 20 per cent fixed transverse elongation. Findings According to the investigation, insertion density of inlay-yarns has a huge impact on air permeability; however, air permeability of knitted material is not linearly proportional to the total amount of inlay-yarns. Also, it was found that air permeability increases by increasing elongation, regardless of knitting pattern and total amount of elastomeric inlay-yarn in the knitted structure. Alteration of the loop geometry at natural state and 20 per cent fixed elongation was established, and the increase of air permeability at fixed elongation may be dependent on changes of knitted material porosity. Originality/value According to the obtained results, recommendations to perform air permeability measurement at least with minimal specific wear elongation are presented.