Fabric design considering the optimisation of seam slippage

Purpose The dependence of seam slippage values on fabric construction parameters makes this property an interesting case for study. Design/methodology/approach In this study, made on a significant wool and blended fabrics sample, the seam slippage was measured, either in warp direction (weft yarns slip), or in weft direction (warp yarns slip), using a specially equipped load‐elongation tester. Testing was done following the TM 117 Woolmark Company test method. Findings For most fabrics, the conventional variables that impact seam slippage most seriously are opacity, polyamide content, finish type and cover factor. Research limitations/implications Since this research does not deal with the variable of yarn crimp in fabrics, it is the cover factor that plays the central role, as the property determining seam slippage. The yarns with lower cover factor (less crimped) are in less danger of slipping between the perpendicular yarns (more crimped) and vice versa. Practical implications Based on the equations given, and changing the most relevant variables concerning the explanation of the fabric seam slippage property, the fabric properties can be optimised for specific end‐uses. Originality/value Optimisation of seam slippage in fabric design.