Influence of sewing parameters upon the tensile behavior of textile assembly

Purpose The aim of this work is to check the influence of some sewing parameters upon the tensile behaviour of a textile assembly (assembly of two woven samples by a seam). Design/methodology/approach This analysis was carried out according to the approach “experimental design”. The studied parameters are the sewing thread, the stitch type, the stitch density, the needle size and the edge of seam. The targeted answers are drawn from the tensile test on the assembly: breaking strength, breaking elongation and deformation energy. Findings In order to highlight the behaviour of the seam, a load‐extension curve for the stitch line is established: it represents, for a value of a given tensile effort, the difference between the displacement of the assembly and that of the fabric. From this curve, breaking elongation as well as the deformation energy are determined. Originality/value An “experimental design” was carried out and analysed for two types of assembly (warp and weft). Linear models predicting each response were established.